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Pop Up Camper Repair Orange County

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Repair Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened down.) I didn't see anything wrong, however retracted both awning simply to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall seamless gutter had been drawn away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Orange County. I'm thinking the repair service will require replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, major repair work, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip prior to we understood the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is split near the bottom and totally damaged through on top, to ensure that the top assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio reasonable? Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is broken it has to be entirely replaced? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like advice regarding just how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - possibly also get us with the summer season - without needing to place in a brand brand-new awning! We're in an extremely serious bind due to the fact that we have a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a quick and reliable service. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roof covering outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the final actions of this article (subjecting the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Right here's a detail of just how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this action until the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning. Once the placing brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is generally similar to a normal piece of aluminum roofing system edge trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, after that you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to cut the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just pull it out!

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground little by little by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two established screws were eliminated I might slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples stifling. I pried them out as ideal I could. The following point holding back the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I just pried up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding need to be removed.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same way, and curved it sideways simply enough so that I could raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side. Same bargain once more. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but adhesive at this factor) and after that I might yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The whole point began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not understand just how exactly they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing system was shedding toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim pieces completely down besides. However we'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping via the staples. Finally the edge of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side. Same deal again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling however adhesive now) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Repair Orange County. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the broken bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roof covering was losing stamina and rigidity as I drew up the top layer, so split it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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