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Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me Corona

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shop Near Me Corona, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually drawn away from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me Corona. I'm assuming the fixing will entail changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we recognized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, yet the front one is broken at the base and completely appeared on top, to make sure that the leading assistance arm no more attaches to the camper. We remain in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Even the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray metal - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it has to be totally changed? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was all new during that time. If nothing else, we would like advice as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps also get us through the summer season - without needing to place in a new awning! We remain in a really major bind since we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a quick and reliable option. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to remove the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise discover how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the final steps of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually need to do this action till the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting bracket on the. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing system like me, then you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's much like eliminating the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that just yank it out.

You may have to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) HEADS UP! As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just know it's coming! As soon as the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was secured under it. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as both established screws were eliminated I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can eliminate the old roof decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples holding it down. I pried them out as finest I could. The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I just tore up the plastic insert and pulled out enough so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I may finish up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the edge molding must be removed.

After that I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I switched over from a scrape to a stiff 6 large putty blade. This piece cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. Then I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened up the other edge trim in the exact same way, and curved it laterally just sufficient so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. The edge of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Exact same bargain once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however glue at this factor) and after that I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scraped up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize how exactly they took care of to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roof was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping via the staples. The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much quieting but glue at this point) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Air Conditioner Repair Near Me Corona. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I do not recognize exactly how exactly they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof covering was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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